Saturday, August 11, 2018

1926 - Part 2: Elto Light Twin Powers 600 Miles to Georgian Bay




Awoke very early and with a hurried breakfast we were packed and on our way and ran up to Sturgeon Point Life Saving Station, the last four miles against a heavy head sea, for the wind had again whipped into the north.

It blew a gale all day and we visited with friends living nearby until evening when we re-embarked and ran to Alpena, landing at 2:00 A.M. just below the city.

This was a matter of 25 miles out of our way, but it had become necessary to fuel up for our jump across the lake and the matter of weather reports also seemed to make the extra run worthwhile.  It was Sunday morning and all day the wind blew a gale across Thunder Bay.  When we started out at noon we were forced to turn back,  wet through within five minutes.

Towards evening the wind seemed to be dying down and we ran the 15 miles out to Thunder Bay Island, attempting to cross between Sugar Island and the mainland only to run on a rock reef, a full two miles from shore.

Here the Navigator went overboard and towed the boat for a full half mile and then we ran out into the steamer course and passed Middle Island Light just at dark.  We ran on for another hour and landed about six miles north of Rockport, and building a big camp fire made coffee, and had a late supper and slept until morning.


Middle Island Light Station in 1931
Photograph courtesy U.S. Coast Guard


Away early and reached Presque Isle Harbor at 5:00 just as a heavy thunder squall struck us.  Weather reports at Alpena said "Rain and heavy north or northwest winds for Monday" and it looked as if it intended to regain the old lake levels all in one storm; but after raining for an hour during which time we found shelter at the fishery at Presque Isle Harbor, one of the most beautiful spots on the Lakes.

The sea flattened down and we headed out due north for False Detour, thirty-seven miles away across the lake.  Hardly a ripple on the water and we made fine time for the first couple hours and then a wind out of the west started to rise the sea.  We had crossed the outside steamer course 12 miles off shore and a couple of big freighters had passed close by us, their crews lining the rail and apparently talking over the rather unusual place for a small boat.  We waved our hands to the officer on the bridge and his shouts were hardly loud enough to be heard over the roar of the little kicker as we crossed his bow.  It is likely he was warning us back as the wind and sea increased until it became advisable to give way before it and dropping off to N. E. by E. we sighted land ahead.  We knew something of the feeling which came over Columbus when he sighted land.

SS Daniel J. Morrell - on Lake Huron in 1926
Had been entirely out of sight of land for 3  1/2 hours and Greater Duck Island looked good to us.  Slowed to trolling speed when about 2 miles off and caught a fine lake trout.  Slipping in between Greater Duck and Middle Duck Islands we landed, and were busy cleaning the fish and making preparations for dinner when the keeper of the Light came to call on us.  He enquired who we were and where we were from and upon being informed we had cut across the 47 miles that separates his Light from Presque Isle he expressed himself in rather free terms regarding our nerve and judgement, ending by the opinion it might be a couple of days before the weather would permit us to proceed, and inviting us to come to the Light and pay a visit, insisting that they had plenty of accommodations and would enjoy having company.

Thanking him for his good wishes and kind invitation we proceeded with dinner and then lay about in the shade for a couple of hours to get the kinks out our system, and later headed for Mississagi Strait 32 miles beyond.




The last view we had of Great Duck showed our good host waving his hand from the shore. This run was made in a moderate sea and largely under shelter of a string of islands which connect Great Duck and the Manitoulin Ilands.  We stopped twice, once when passing close by a bald rock about 200 feet in diameter on which the gulls were nesting.  The rock was literally alive with baby gulls which look like little yellow downy ducks and it was interesting to watch them.  The mother birds circled over our heads  with weird cries and we did not attempt to land and hurried along.



About five miles off of Manitoulin Island we found a gas tug floating around in the sea and upon running aside the owner said his batteries were dead and his anchor chain was to be seen hanging straight over the bow and a glance at the chart showed it was probably a couple hundred feet too short.  Our offer to tow him ashore was looked upon as a joke and he enquired "what with?".  However he passed us a line and we were actually able to get under way with him following on behind.  But I had no intention of towing a forty foot tug with our little outfit so in 10 minutes I cut loose the line and presented him with our extra hot-shot battery.  He seemed rather pleased and a few minutes later a roar told us the Ruth, of Cockburn Island was again hitting on all four.  An hour later he passed us and it was our turn to refuse to be towed.  Our motor had never faltered and we felt no fear in disposing of our spare battery.

Mississagi Light came rushing at us around the corner of the headland just at dark and we ran through the Straits, a distance of 7 1/2 miles, only to find no shelter from a howling northeaster which was sending heavy seas rolling the entire length of the passage.  Mississagi is 1 3/4 miles wide and was being lashed into a furious choppy sea.  After some difficulty we made a landing on the rocky shore at the Bay end of the passage only to find it impossible to remain and being forced to put out again.  We crossed the passage, running in the trough, and hardly being able to see a boat length ahead, and here the crew showed her first signs of uneasiness.  Failing to find shelter on the westerly side we ram back below the light and finally pulled the boat up on flat shelving rock 100 years below the lighthouse at about 11:00 P. M..

A promise of coffee was spoiled by inability to get the cork out of the thermos jar and we found some solace in a smaller container with a screw top.  Not bothering to erect a tent we spread bedding rolls on the rocks and were soon asleep.  During the night a thump from the boat awoke us and hasty investigation showed the wind shifting to the north.  Day-break found us up and ready for action and a second run through the passage showed the Bay still too rough for small craft and turning back into Lake Huron we skirted Cockburn Island, landing on the shore just above False Detour and cooking a meal, though we hardly knew whether to call it breakfast or dinner.

At this point the shore was strewn with bundles of lath, new and bright, indicating that some barge had parted with her deck load.  As far as one could see bundles were scattered along and it seemed a shame to go away and leave them, but as we had no license as a  lumber carrier we went on, stopping to investigate the old steamer and barge which are driven ashore just above False Detour.  They have cut the stern off the steamer to remove her machinery and we ran inside the hull, which would provide a fine boat house for our little craft.

 Finding the sea still running strong from the Bay we decided in favor of going around Drummond Island rather than camping until the wind went down.  Drummond Island is 20 miles long and 12 miles wide and by the time we reached the west end the wind had started to shift into the west and was stirring up more trouble for us.  We passed Detour Light Ship, and crossed St. Mary's River and Potaganissing Bay in a heavy following sea.  The water is shoal and breaks badly and opposite Detour the steamer Noronic passed us so close as to give us a great shaking up with her 10 foot swell.


NOTE: I can't find any reference to a place named False Detour, or to a Detour Light Ship.  I find there was a DeTour Light then though. Not the one there now however.  This second installment had no photos so all of these are added.  I was delighted to find the postcard of the Noronic...that would certainly get my attention when passing!)

About this time the question of gasoline began to assume serious proportions and we were quite pleased when we passed around a headland and found a snug little village at the end of one of the most beautiful harbors we had ever seen.  We were soon tied to the wharf at Milford Haven and found it to be one of the oldest settlements in that part of the country.

NOTE: The settlement our author found here is gone.
Milford Haven
Anchorage:  The best anchorage on this side of St. Joseph Island is at Milford Haven. The long, narrow bay affords good protection in a bucolic setting. Its easy entrance is marked by a flashing red light on Koshkawong Point, and depths exceed 10 feet almost to the far end. The harbor is on both U.S. Chart 14882 and Canadian Chart 2251...

No trouble in securing five gallons of gas, and we ran out again and rounded the south end of St. Joe Island, reaching Hilton Beach, having covered approximately 100 miles since breakfast.  We were warmly greeted by friends who had been looking for us all that day, and we answered a thousand questions regarding the trip.

The following morning a bass fishing expedition was planned and for the next four days Inez Mae performed as a fishing skiff and excursion boat.  We took 53 small mouth black bass in one afternoon and 42 another, with no end of pike and perch.  This is indeed a fisherman's paradise and the resorters were always eager and ready to go for a ride in the little outfit which as they put it "has come clear across from the States". 

On one occasion the question of starting when it was damp or wet and one lady stated she was in the habit of carrying an umbrella to protect their outboard in case of sudden showers.  In answer to this fear we poured water all over our engine both with it running at full speed and while idle and it did not miss a beat.  Upon being informed that the motor had not been covered since the trip was started great surprise was shown and with 24 hours we had two parties bidding on the entire outfit.  However, we were determined to drive our boat home and refused to sell, though we had the satisfaction of seeing our new Elto proudly carried down from the Soo following our demonstrations.

After a delightful visit at St. Joe we left Saturday evening for a 30 mile run across Georgian Bay to Thessalon and arrived at 10:30 P. M. to be greeted by our good friend Capt. Spalding of the Str. Usona.  (Str. = inland steamer)  

Monday morning found a group of curious citizens on the dock and with a heavy sea running it was ideal weather to demonstrate the outfit and until we had wet a few our more curious we had great fun.  Passenger lists fell off at noon and at 6:00 we raised Inez Mae on the davits and 8:00 found us headed out of the Bay, guests aboard the steamer.

It was approaching the first of the month and time to get back to work.  We were glad to save the time which might have been spent waiting for a favorable day to re-cross the Lake.  Prevailing winds are westerly and it might have caused considerable delay waiting for conditions to warrant the attempt. 
Tuesday at 5:30 A. M. we were off Sturgeon Point but a heavy sea prohibited our attempting to launch and board the small boat, though once safely in her we could have made shore without serious difficulty.  Noon found us still on board and the Steamer ran inside the breakwall at Harbor Beach and lowered away under protection.




















(to be continued)

This guy isn't the best at descriptive writing, is he?  
And don't you get the feeling he is trying hard to be an Elto ad? 

Oh well... I'm getting to know Lake Huron better.





























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